Staying on the theme of big wave surfing, here is a perfect example of how Australian Jeff Rowley specialises in paddle-in surfing the biggest waves in the world.
Music by Unkle featuring Ian Brown_Be There:
And here’s a few words from the man himself on the wave at hand and how it came about and what’s next on the agenda…….
Let’s just say its off the bottom of Australia.
The swell was 19 feet at 18 seconds when it hit the buoys, and I was riding a new Channel Islands 11’0″ that was 4″ thick.
The wave looks like Mavericks being a cold water peak, although its a lot more spread out lineup- more of a hunting ground. Mavs is a slab that hits the same exact spot. I rode the 11’0 so I could cover more ground.
I was in Indo when I first saw the swell on the charts. It had been a bad season for big swells in Oz until then so I didnt want to miss it. The swell held back until after lunch, then there was a narrow window in the afternoon when the swell grew rapidly, and the wind stayed offshore long enough to get the session before the a massive storm front hit. I was really happy with the big steep wave because I had to paddle hard and throw myself over the edge. That gave me the confidence to knife it on the next one.
I grew up surfing this kind of wave- cold water and long thick walls. Australia has a lot of fairly isolated big waves, with deep water that will hold you down for a long time if you make a mistake. Im lucky to have experience in those kind of waves and be able to draw on it at places like Jaws.
Pretty soon my girl and I will be making our way to Hawaii for the Winter. Hopefully this season has really big swells and catch some big ones.