Wow what a week for big wave surfing, it seemed you couldn’t open a paper, switch on a computer or turn on the telly without seeing photos or footage of the biggest swell ever to be surfed in Europe and probably the world hit Nazare.
It was a tough call for a euro big wave surfer and without being able to split myself into 3 or get hold of some sort of tellyporter, I was going to miss out on some big old rollers and of course I knew what was going to unfold in Nazare, and the small window of opportunity which happened at Mullughmore, but also I wanted to win the first ever euro BWWT qualifier, which was being held at Punta Galea in Spain (Big wave world tour) and get a stab at doing an event in the States, so I packed my bags and tried to focus on the job in hand.
The waves were solid and pretty bumpy and breaking all over the place, but vaguely right, I spent most of my heat caught inside as I miss-timed the paddle and ended up getting a 20ft set on the head, then my leashed snapped, so after a bit of swimming I was re united with my board and managed to get a couple of waves under my belt.
It wasn’t ideal but I was stoked to get a few scoring waves in, and I felt really strong in the conditions, my last wave was a pretty sick one, but unfortunately I didn’t quite make the cut, but ended up placing 9th overall.
There’ll be bigger swells to come that’s for sure, but let’s just hope they don’t clash with any contests!