Karma.We left 4 foot perfect Costa Rica in pursuit of better, drawn along by the promise of stand up barrels. I had to swear secrecy which is standard practise when working under- cover with Carve magazine.The reason for secrecy is an attempt to keep a rare uncrowded spot uncrowded. Our secrecy and greed bought a curse upon us, like a monkey falling out of a tree a surf trip without surf is useless. In hindsight the signs were clear; the refusal of our board bags on the bus, no seats left on bus, missed bus, tire blow out, border crossing nightmare and over charged taxi rides.That’s just how it works here and it does work we completed the journey, eventually, after 3 days.
I suppose I could tell you where we went but you will have more fun guessing. First tip is only go there in season not in the 2 weeks it goes flat. The word of the trip was potential, we saw thousands of perfect miniature barrels rolling along down the beach, we saw tiny wedges chuck little waves wide open, we saw a wave that is compared to Pipeline open up onto dry rock, all would be amazing if you are Action man size. We just needed swell. The most important thing when you are traveling is friends, especial when the surf goes flat and you are stuck in the middle of nowhere. Thankfully there was a crew of us; Alan Stokes, Celine Gehret, Tom Fisher, Evie Johnstone, Mike Searle and Rob Barber all in the same proverbial boat. To entertain ourselves we went mad. The music video we made is live now, plenty of bodysurfing pictures, we plucked fish out of Neptune’s larder, urinated off the back of a literal boat, had a huge pool tournament and I went skateboarding (I stopped skating after seeing too many surfers break themselves, usually a day before a contest.). After a week our optimism ran out and we missioned it back to Costa Rica and in a true display of our luck it went flat here as well.
Remember when I said it never goes flat in Costa Rica? Well it got pretty close. I am being dramatic, enough of the doom and gloom – it is still sunny and we did manage some cool pictures so you can check out Carve mag. Stoksey hasn’t surfed for 2 days but he is a good training partner, after 3 months out with a knee injury he is desperate to lose his thermal layer. Unfortunately my swiss ball died, it might have been suicide, he through himself off the patio onto a cactus, I found a puncture repair kit in a desperate attempt to revive him but he was gone, split clean in 2. Apparently the Caribbean coast is cooking at the moment but by the time we get there it will be flat and it will be working here. More adventures on the way hopefully with tales of barrels.
Oh yeah and a literal monkey fell out of a tree to sum up the trip. He was pretty badly hurt but the vet told us there was no way of helping him. He made it up into the trees and his monkey family came back to pick him up all is well and the surf is pumping again.
Check out our video below, all is our own production music to the footage.