This week we moved south down to a place called Deminical which is about a 6 hour trip from Mal Pais, where we’ve been for most of the trip. Deminical is a super heavy short board wave – so heavy that i didn’t surf a longboard for the whole week… 7 days without being on a log, that’s gotta be a record for me! …Having a blast on my 6foot ProFormance shortboard instead.
The first day we rocked up it was pumping… and I mean 6-8 foot clean, super heavy waves looking just like Hossegor in France. I was the only one from the group I was traveling with to paddle out this day, as it looked like neck breaking surf and no one wanted to risk it – it’s fair to say I was pretty much shitting it! I had some beatings and had the biggest set of the day land right on my head when I duck dived (which anyone who has been in that situation will tell you is pretty much the worst place to be!). Apart from getting the shit kicked out of me I had a couple of sick waves, finding one good right hand barrel. As the week went on each day got a bit smaller and I really started to enjoy shortboarding, doing airs and starting to land reverses frontside and backside.
Deminical is a great place if you’re a shortboarder and if you come to Costa Rica it is a must surf, I reckon – there are nice places to stay right on the beach front for cheap… Happy days! There is a nice place to eat called Tortilla Flats, again right on the beach front and you can stay there in a room witch sleeps 4 for $30US dollars a night witch is a really good price. Anyway I’m starting to sound a bit like a travel agent, so I’ll move on!
Apart from surfing there isn’t a whole lot to do, other than just cruising and checking out the wildlife. There’s lots of things splashing around in the water, but seems to be OK as no one’s been eaten yet! Heaps of fish jumping around, dolphins and rays swimming under you as you’re are paddling out is pretty cool!
I think I could get into this life of surfing the best waves in shorts, with the sun out and then lying in the hammock all day before a sunset surf and then making some dinner… in fact all this writing is seeming like hard work, so i’m going to get back to the hammock!
Haworth over & out till next week.
All photo’s (c) Tom Venables