As I sit back, hungover in the hammock this morning I’m thinking about the great new year we had and how its been an awesome week as well, full of lots of surfing and banter. New years eve was a great day despite the horrible hangover I have now. I think that could have been the three buckets of homemade punch we made earlier in the day. We had one quick surf early in the morning and after realising it was awful we decided to get the drinking games going early! After a couple of rounds of a few card games, the punch started to kick in and things became more and more entertaining and got a lot messier! A couple of hours later when we had drunk all the punch we could handle we decided to walk down the little track to the beach to start a massive bonfire with lots of friends. Not to rub salt in the wounds for those of you sat reading this back at home, but it was one of those picture postcard moments – the biggest bonfire that I’ve ever made, sat on the beach with good friends and the BBQ firing – not a bad way to see in the new year!
There were plenty of fun waves during the week as well, a bit smaller averaging about 2-3 foot most days. I’m trying not to surf in the midday heat as it feels as if your face is burning off, even with sun block pasted all over me! I’ve been enjoying my shortboarding this week, maybe too much as one morning we were up at dark and found ourselves sat on the beach waiting for the sun to come up enough to paddle out, as we were so keen to get in! Since we got here I’ve basically been surfing my brains out then crashing out in the down time – just chilling out in the sun & at the apartment, eating food and cracking jokes. It’s pretty tough I gotta admit!
The next blog should be interesting as it looks like we are moving on to panama next week to find some point breaks. Stay tuned!
All photos (c) Tom Venables