The trip started like any epic quest, 3AM with severe weather warning. Day 1: drive to Heathrow, get on aeroplane, change at Newark then a taxi to a hotel in San Jose. Easy part done, my only problem was I can’t sleep on long haul flights, there is just too many movies to watch. Day 2 wasn’t any shorter taxi to the bus station, bus to the ferry port, ferry to the bus and bus to the hotel all in 9 hours, made possible by the spectacular views and landscapes flying past the window. 41 hours of travel is washed away instantly in the warmth of the Pacific ocean.
5.30AM my alarm goes off, I am not a morning person but out here I have failed to sleep past 6AM. Perhaps it is the knowledge that the surf is cooking that gets me out of bed, into my boardies and down the beachwhilst eating a banana. There are waves everyday, everyday there are waves without fail. I spent 3 months out here last year but still don’t speak much Spanish, one thing that confuses me is when the locals say it is flat, the waves will still be 2 foot.
So my training has begun with plenty of surfing. Thanks to Nick Thorn for sneaking a swiss ball, a skipping rope and a stretch band into my bag because surfing 3 times a day isn’t enough. With Nicks help, wisdom and guidance I have decided that improving my flexibility and strength particularly my core strength is the key to improving my surfing. Right now I am focusing on everything airborne and spinney, so lots of stretching and rolling around on the swiss ball to come.
It is not all hard work, for the first 2 weeks my family is out here with me. So plenty of fishing, road trips, sight seeing, walks, swims, BBQ, bonfires and some more fishing. I started spear fishing out here last year and was instantly hooked (you don’t use hooks in spearfishing so I can get away with the pun). Swimming about underwater waiting, stalking and surprising fish is awesome but diner afterwards is best. So far this year I have caught 2 fish both tiny, in my defence the visibility was poor and they do look bigger under the water. The wildlife here is dropping out the trees, literally: monkeys, Iguanas, all sorts of lizards, sloths, birds, bees, bugs, parrots, hummingbirds, butterflies, cats, beach dogs, hermit crabs, pelicans, dolphins and a couple of fish.
I have scouted out a couple of cool reef breaks more on them when the big swells arrive. Also forming are plans for Nicaragua and El Salvador and World domination (surfing world at least).