After a long tiring 24 hours of travelling, exhausted, tired and dehydrated we finally arrived at Mall Pais. We arrived at about 2.30 in the afternoon so had heaps of time for a surf. Quickly having waxed up our boards, slapped on some sun lotion and walked the 3 minutes down our track to the surf and we’re greeted by 4 ft super fun, clean high tide waves with plenty of sections to smash. Trying to get over the problem of slippy wax (as most doesn’t seem to work over here) we all still had some fun waves. We surfed for about 2 hours whilst the sun was going down and were well happy with our first surf! As we headed back to the rooms and went for dinner at Zula restaurant, then were all in bed by 7.30pm due to the jet lag.
As we woke up at 5.30 the next morning to go find the waves, again we scored clean 3-4 ft waves at high tide. As the tide went out it created some super fun barrels on the inside section and some pretty mutant sections. One thought in my mind…. My board may end up in two pieces! Surfing 3 times on the first day, super tired and back in bed by 7.30pm!
On the second day as we walked down the beach already to paddle out in 3 ft clean waves stumbled in to an old friend ready to go for a surf… Stuart Campbell. As it was Stu, I felt the need to drop in on him on the first wave and was nose riding ahead as he was smashing the sections behind me. After this wave we knew this was going to be a super fun trip like the good old times – i’ll keep you posted with how i’m getting on!
Merry Christmas from Costa!
All photos (c) Tom Venables