Yeah that is me surfing and yeah that guy leaning out the helicopter is filming, it’s how I roll when I’m down in Portugal, I’m so Hollywood.
Been hanging out in this town called Nazare the last few weeks filming for the next installment of The North Canyon Show by Garrett McNamara, the first one is in cinemas over there right now and is a really interesting watch. I’m not just saying that because I’m in it a bit talking rubbish with sunscreen all over my face, I have also got a few waves in it to and there’s some amazing GoPro footage which is gold, shot by yours truly.
So this place isn’t your typical big wave spot as it’s a beachie, but as any good legit big wave spot does it gets huge with minimal amounts of swell and can produce some of the most gnarly conditions I’ve ever experienced, with so much aerated foam in the water in the impact zone the ski’s don’t work properly making it a nightmare to do rescues, mental rips that suck you into the cliff and a shore dump not to be taken likely. In the last few weeks we haven’t only managed to get a few clips for the next documentary but we also managed to ride some of the biggest waves surfed this year, one in particular has been measured by experts at 85 – 90ft which was surfed by Garrett McNamara last week.
Believe me it’s a pretty big freaking wave! All this never comes without its dues as we’ve all had some close calls and kicking’s and even wrote off a ski which is always an expensive mistake. Hopefully get a clip up here soon of a few of my waves from last year to check out as you’ll have to wait for the next years documentary to check out the more recent stuff.
Photo: POLVO/Jorge Leal & Wilson Ribeiro