It’s September already. I got a bit of a fright when my computer told me that this morning. Where did the summer go? I feel robbed! The weather has been rubbish, but more importantly there hasn’t been much swell. August hurricane swells seem to have gone right out of fashion lately.
I was about to get depressed when I had a thought – the water is at its warmest, and will be comfortable for at least another three months, the school holidays finish this weekend, and there is only one wedding for my Mrs to drag me to before Christmas. But best of all, the north Atlantic is going to start rumbling any time now. While we all like those mellow summer surfs, what I really want is exhilaration. I want swell. I want autumn storms - big, raw and offshore. I want to be scared again. I want to claw into a big grey wall of water without a plethora of boogie boards and inflatable dinosaurs in my way. I want to get barreled. I want to see you get barreled. I want to watch from the car park and think twice about paddling out, and then paddle out. I want to surf breaks that only work in winter. I want to see Nick Thorn on the cover of the North Devon Gazette riding a beast that looks it has rolled in from Hawaii. I want Digger to get a few more pictures for his surf shop wall, so that next summer’s tourists can gawp unbelievably, drip their ice creams on the bodyboards and say “No way is that Woolacombe, it must be fake!”
The days are getting shorter, the nights are getting colder, but bring it on I say.
Summer is boring. Happy Autumn everyone!